I eat I drink I work

On a soggy Saturday morning, a friend and I drive down to the Collingwood Children’s Farm. The monthly farmers’ market is taking place, and we’re after rhubarb, apples, and a hot coffee. As we pull into the carpark, the rain starts coming down in sheets and we skid down the ramp to the market, wishing for an umbrella.

The atmosphere is cheerful, with families huddled in the barn eating hot pancakes and shoppers contemplating a dash to the produce section. It’s a far cry from the previous market, where, just a week after Black Saturday, shoppers were traipsing across dusty yellow grass to a small, anxious group of stallholders.

Although it was quickly ascertained that all stallholders were safe, no–one was sure about the extent of the damage, or the effect it would have on food production and supply in Melbourne. Now, although there is still significant investigation to be done, food suppliers are beginning to have a clearer idea of the way the bushfires will affect farmers, shoppers and restaurateurs.

I chat to Rob Sinclair, of Sinclair Orchards, who narrowly avoided being affected by the Beechworth bushfires —while flames came to his back fence, only about 40 of his 6000 apple trees were scorched. He counts himself lucky, noting that some of the surrounding orchards will need to be entirely replanted.

"It takes about 3–5 years for apple trees to become commercially viable," he tells me, adding that infrastructure loss can add severe costs on top of the loss of a crop. "One of the biggest problems is the loss of irrigation lines — especially with water reserves down." He adds that the fires passed so quickly that it’s unlikely soil will be too damaged to replant — a small blessing for affected orchards, under the circumstances.

Lloyd Klumpp, from the Department of Primary Industries, feels it’s too early to assess the full extent of the damage, but thinks that niche producers and small dairy and livestock farmers will be the hardest hit.

When asked whether the bushfires will have an effect on the marketplace, Klumpp says "I have to think it’s unavoidable, especially for niche industries and smaller growers who supply significant numbers to Melbourne markets". Like Sinclair, he suggests that it will be individual producers who will be hardest hit. While the fires didn’t make a dint in the supply of any one crop (as has been the case with spinach in the Queensland floods), specialty products may disappear from the markets.

According to the DPI’s most recent analysis, livestock and dairy cattle have been the most affected. While the DPI’s initial concern in a natural disaster is animal welfare, deployment of its staff in affected areas serves the secondary purpose of collecting information. "Our first job is to go in," Lloyd tells me, "find injured animals and ease that suffering. We collect a lot of info, and from that we form the database."

While the database is far from complete, the figures are grim. The Black Saturday fires damaged or destroyed about 90 000 hectares, taking with it thirty-two olive farms, sixty orchards, and fifty to sixty market vegetable farms. Figures for lost or destroyed livestock are similarly confronting; 3000 sheep, 1500 cattle, 100 dairy cattle, 2000 poultry, and a handful of pigs. The numbers are expected to rise steeply as the survey is completed.

What surprises me the most is that the figures for livestock, while seemingly sky–high, are relatively low compared with other fires. Lloyd tells me that in the Ash Wednesday fires, 12 000 head of cattle died in the Otway fires alone.

He has a theory about this. "If you look at maps of the fires, you’ll notice that they spread in fingers, rather than as fireballs. One theory as to why livestock loss has been relatively low is that the sheep have been able to jump from finger to finger."

"These are still significant losses, though," he adds. "I don’t want to sound as though I’m trivialising them. People have lost not only animals but infrastructure, or are selling off animals as they’re too expensive to feed."

Wine growers in the region face a different set of challenges, although the loss of infrastructure is a serious concern. Thirty–five vineyards have been directly affected, and Joanne Butterworth-Gray, the Chief Executive of the Victorian Wine Growers’ Association, tells me that wine producers in the area will have to wait until April to find out whether smoke from the fires has significantly damaged their grapes.

While she assures me that there will not be a significant impact on the market place, she is unsure of whether certain varieties will be pricier across the board. "Once vintage is complete, and there is an assessment of the impact of extreme heat and fires on yields, then we will know the impact on supply levels."

The VWIA is auditing the impact of heat and smoke damage on vineyards, and hopes to know the full extent soon. When asked how the industry plans to get back on its feet, Joanne is optimistic and determined. "With collaboration between industry bodies, researchers, and government departments —together we can, and will make a difference."

There is a sense of cautious optimism shared by everyone I speak to, suggesting that although the fires have had a devastating effect on niche producers, careful support of affected farmers can help bolster damaged industries. Back at the farmer’s market, Rob Sinclair stresses the importance of events like this. He estimates that a quarter to a third of his income is from direct sales, and that they’re the best outlet for affected producers to recover some money.

"It’s a great way to support farmers," he say, packing sodden apples back into his van. While produce supply won’t be significantly affected by the disaster of the fires, individual producers will, and market support could be make–or–break for recovering farms. The market is coming to an end, and we turn and walk back to the car. Although there are puddles inside my shoes, I’m suddenly glad for rain.